Tuesday, February 26, 2013

WAITING FOR THE SEEN, while the unseen happens





February is a waiting time.   

(The bench, above, is not even in Vermont, but an empty bench suggests waiting, doesn't it?  Since I've included the bench, I might as well include the tree that stood opposite.  I'll call it the Nose Tree.)

I digress.


In a winter that has been seesawing back and forth between freeze and thaw, those of us who ski are waiting to learn the final score on this winter’s snow.  Will a late storm (just one big one, please, before it’s all over) give the winter of 2012/13 a statistical kick?  How much more skiing, snowshoeing, or plowing is there going to be?  If any.  As the snow melts away I miss the fresh tracks that hinted at who-did-what when we weren’t looking.  Evidence of the unseen.


 Some Things That Happen this Time of Year*
◦             You may hear the loud drumming of single male pileated woodpeckers, advertising for females.  Once mated, a pair will remain together throughout the year.
◦             Sometimes crows gather in large groups at this time of year.
◦             Coyotes are sexually active.  Five to nine pups will be born from mid-April to May.



A guy in line at a store the other day was buying 100 maple tree taps.  He’s getting ready.  Sugarbush tappers are waiting for the first flowing of maple sap.  That should be any time now.  A few more warm days, around 40 degrees or so, with nights below freezing are all that’s needed.  We’ve had some of those already, although it’s still February.  Wood for the sap burn has long been cut and stacked.  In our little shack a new evaporating pan waits.

 More Things That Happen
◦             Cattail flower heads disintegrate throughout the winter, releasing their 125,000 or so seeds.
◦             Sometimes the fruits of wild grapes turn into raisins and stay well into winter, a plus for wildlife.

Local farmers are waiting for births–new calves, lambs and goat kids.

Dairy calves–Holsteins, Jerseys or a mix, mostly–are born here on dairy farms the year-round, but beef calves, kids and lambs are generally born in February and March.  Ewes and does become fertile as the day length decreases in the fall.  To me, an animal’s response to light in this way puts me more in mind of plants than animals. Pregnancy–gestation” is the term usually used for goats and sheep–lasts about five months.*  In the case of cows, it’s about nine months. 

The tag gives her age:  Born two springs ago



For local 4-H’ers (“4-H” signifying a union of activities for “head, heart, hands, and health”) it’s mostly about cows.  Now is the time for selecting the calf they will get to know for the next five-plus months and show at the county fair in August.  Since Ben, Audrey and Carly will each be doing this, I have an opportunity to observe the process. 



Checking out the calves born in the fall


 Even More Things That Happen
◦             Wild turkeys seem to get braver as their food supplies dwindle.  They may venture into yards and orchards for spilled birdseed and fallen fruits.
◦             Skunks come out to look for mates, and sometimes can be heard squabbling in the night.  Baby skunks, usually six or seven, are born two months after mating occurs.



Some one-year olds are candidates for someone aged 12 or older to handle


For farmers, 4-H is one more way to “gentle” their animals.  Calves used to handling by people will be less likely to spook and cause trouble.  “You wouldn’t stand in the middle of a bunch of cows like this with just any cows,” said the farmer (below) who knew the name of every cow. “My father always pays a lot of attention to his cows.  They (the 4-H’ers) help socialize them.”   



Young calves almost look like fawns.  They’re small and doe-eyed with long eyelashes.  Adult cows are immense.  It’s hard to notice lashes.  You have to pay attention to that size.  The daughter of someone we know who was training to be a farmer was kicked in the face by a cow and almost lost an eye.  Over a summer grazing cows demolished an old bench that sat under an apple tree in the field next door.  It’s not that the cows were aggressive toward it, but they probably merely leaned against it, or bumped or pushed it from time to time. They are big.


Only nine days old, the choice of all those under 12.  By the time the county fair begins in August,
she'll be just the right size.

 More Things
◦             Foxes will cache food caught during good hunting days in pits they dig in the snow.  Then it is covered over;
◦             Chickadee flocks are breaking up; listen for the two-note territorial song of the male–‘feebee’–the first note higher than the second;
◦             Acrobatic aerial courtship displays by ravens are under way.  Rolling, tumbling, and soaring are accompanied by the loud territorial call, a resonating ‘quork.’



A graceful cloud drifts by one clear day


Ah, Vermont.  NY Times book reviewer Dwight Garner recently reviewed–blisteringly–a Jamaica Kincaid novel set in Vermont, a Vermont he described as:  “the Vermont of the cartoonist Ed Koren...where people are fuzzy and semi-adorable and drive old Saabs; their sweaters smell faintly of peat and wood smoke. NPR simmers in the background like fish stock.”

I love it.  But lets say we are actually fuzzy and semi-adorable, why not? but we drive Subaru’s, for goodness’ sake, we wear fleeces and down vests, sweaters not so much, and the fleeces probably do smell of smoke, but that would be wood, not peat.  Must have been thinking of Ireland.  The stuff simmering in the background?  That would more likely be chicken stock, given where we are.  Somebody better invite the guy to Vermont.


NOTES
 * Excerpts in boxes are from The Place You Call Home, “A Look at the Season’s Main Events: Winter,” Center for Northern Woodlands Education, a publication of Vermont Fish and Wildlife, 2008
** Information from a column by Joe Klopfenstein, DVM, Addison Independent

Friday, February 8, 2013

NEW OLD URBAN LANDSCAPE: NYC

From "The Ramble" in Central Park





The shape of the land


I never appreciated New York City until I moved away.

I don’t live in the “real” America, was how my thinking went when I was growing up.  Although I was born in Brooklyn and lived in Queens until I left for college,  “America,” my idea of it anyway, was of some other place, a place where there weren’t apartments or attached houses, but open fields, forests, maybe even mountains, where you could actually see the shape of the land.  (Right, I know, Vermont!)



What's not to appreciate?  A fancy nest in a yellow aerie.


Where else but NY?


It’s not easy to see the shape of the land when you’re in New York.  When Madison Avenue gently climbs uptown it’s a reminder that Manhattan isn’t a totally flat grid.  It just seems that way.  Knowing the lower Manhattan subways flooded after Hurricane Sandy, is a reminder that there is water all around, and lower Manhattan really is lower.  Central Park, thanks to Franklin Law Olmstead, is, of course, a hugely enhanced reminder of how things once looked––those primeval rocks sticking out of the ground––but other city parks are mostly manufactured.  And all the buildings, because of their immense height and size, create a kind of giant concrete sequoia forest, the throngs of people––if you can bear with this metaphor––like underbrush you need to push through if you want to get to the edges to see things like rivers. 





The High Line rises above that–literally.   You can see the Hudson River from it at every cross street.  It was created in 2002 after a couple of guys from the neighborhood envisioned an urban park cum walkway in the long-abandoned elevated railway line by then sprouting tall weeds and even trees.  (It starts at W30th Street for now (an extension over the rail yards is in the works) and ends downtown at Gansevoort in the meatpacking and one-time spice warehouse district.

A winter garden on the High Line; art work on building in background.

Sometimes you walk close to buildings...

Other times it widens; opposite the steps, the side of a building serves as a movie screen in summer



Places, things


A whole week in NYC offered a chance to do more than we do on the usual weekend visits:  the MoMA and the Metropolitan Museum of Art (not just one day, but twice, and still not near enough to see it all), and the Museum of the American Indian (at Battery Park, a locale that reminds you the sea is out there).  Scratching the surface, in other words.  Still, when you have more time you see more, and you see differently.  At the Met, where it’s so hard to spend enough time when the only time is a single afternoon, we were half way through the second day's visit before we viewed a single painting, although paintings, and a few large objects, comprised most of my memory of past visits. 


At the Met I was struck by the weight of the armor:  ~90 pounds on the horse, maybe ~60 on the man, and then there was the weight of the man, plus lance.



The armor of Henry VIII in his late years; I could sense him inside, having just
read Hilary's Mantel's "Bringing Up the Bodies," about Henry VIII and
his long time chief advisor Thomas Cromwell.


One of the Met's magnificent big spaces

Probably not color-correct here,  one of several Van Gogh "Sunflowers" 




I had been eager to see Van Gogh’s “Starry Night,” having spent countless hours on an annoying 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle of the painting with its challenging swirls and lacings of every conceivable color in sky, tree, mountains, town.  It wasn’t a complete waste of time, however, because I got to know intimately every shade Van Gogh used, and every section of his painting.  But what a revelation to see the original again!  How vibrant!  I couldn't get my eyes off it.  I felt as if I knew every brushstroke.  I found new colors I hadn't seen before.  I'd been working with a faded imitation that had several inches lopped off the top.  



 My stupid lousy puzzle.  Those aren't birds in the sky; six pieces got sucked up by the vacuum.  And my photo missed including bottom part.  But you get the idea. 







The original (well, sort of) at the MoMA  

Among other entertainments ("The Mystery of Edwin Drood, an award-winning musical that somehow lacked that elusive magic quality, a cabaret performance by chanteuse Ute Lemper that supplied the missing magic), we saw a remarkable play.  Memorable, you could say.  “The Perfect Crime" it was, and it has to rank as the worst play I have ever seen.  I include elementary school productions.  The crappy theater, the outdated set, the acting ("amateurish" would be a compliment), the utterly  incomprehensible plot––uniformly atrocious.  It is–unbelievably–the longest running play in New York theater history.  There are four roles and everyone was awful.  The leading lady has played hers for over 10,000 performances without missing a day since the show opened in 1987.  1987!  That’s when Reagan was President, and before cell phones, 9/11, and iPods.  What circle of hell must she be in?  

(My TripAdvisor review: “Was this a high school play rehearsal? Was the script written by furiously typing monkeys? Did leading lady Catherine Russell have a plane to catch? Did George McDaniel’s emoting belong to a different play entirely? Which correspondence course did John Hillmer take to learn his British accent? Why is this perfect mess still playing after all these years?)  The sentiment was shared by numerous others.  It was oh so very bad we actually kind of enjoyed it.


Constructions


NY is in flux, as usual, with buildings coming down, others going up.  As in a forest, it’s sometimes hard to pick out individual ones because there are so many assembled close.  Suddenly there may be a break between streets or a corner turned, and you see what otherwise you might have missed.










To enter the 9/11 memorial site you are required to line up and pass through a security check, like boarding a plane (belts off, pockets emptied).  After that you emerge onto a large open park, a place you might want to linger in if you didn’t feel so boxed in.  I hope it won’t always be this way. It signals menace.  Which, I suppose, is fitting.  I got the same feeling from the memorials themselves.  The dark pit into which the black water flows is creepy. That, too, seems fitting. 




Shattered remains of the Trade Center walls and piles of rubble were still here when we came to this place in October of 2001.  The air still smelled of unidentifiable substances.  Ash still filled several store windows.  Tourists were still posing with abashed-looking policemen.

The new World Trade Center


Speaking of buildings, it is the 100th anniversary of a great one:  Grand Central Station.  It's one-time counterpart, Pennsylvania Station, is nothing more than a subway entrance to the trains below.  Grand Central is a beautiful survivor.


Wednesday, January 16, 2013

MAKING TRACKS and erasing them

Around 3 in the afternoon

Things change.  Just a day ago you could see animal tracks in the snow.  Four days ago it looked the way it does in this photo, the snow still light and deep.  But things change, and it is only January.  It may change again.

The snow provided a way of seeing the unseen:  on its surface were the tracings of movements in the world outdoors, markings made while we slept or sat reading by the fire.  The snow yields its data like a crime investigator's sprinkling of powder yields information about fingerprints.  Some footprints seem obvious (a deer hoof, for example) but others are trickier, because much depends on the condition of the snow (hard, soft, mushy?), the age of the footprint (drifted over, melted?), and, most of all, the gait of the animal (running, jumping, hopping?).   Was it short, perhaps dragging its tail or body across the snow?  Or was it large and heavy, making deep imprints?  Did it interact with whatever made the other set of footprints?  Who chased whom?


In late afternoon, clockwise, small deer, vole, squirrel, vole tracks (I think!)
Deer tracks
A place where a deer has bedded down; other deer tracks to the left




An area where numerous deer bedded down for the night


It's evident in the above picture that deer can really mess up the snow in an area where they have gathered and bedded down.  There were about a dozen signs of bedding down here.  Does that mean there were a dozen deer?  Or a smaller number, bedding down here more than once?

While driving on a nearby road a few days after taking the pictures above I noticed a large area with disturbed snow throughout the entire field.  No cows inhabit this particular field (it's not even fenced),  no snowmobiles had been here, no crowd of humans.  So what could have churned up several acres of snow?  It seemed unlikely, but clear hoof prints in every direction made it obvious:  deer.  Lots of them.  It makes me wonder about the size of the local deer herd.


Several acres of mysteriously (or not so mysteriously) trampled snow

Yet I haven't seen a single deer for months.  I haven't seen a rabbit or snowshoe hare either.  But the snow revealed where one had been, and where it died.  Coyote tracks were nearby.

Once was a rabbit, but not much left besides fur.  


Snowmobile tracks are what you usually see in open fields.  There are many trails around for snowmobiles and small flag markers delineate many of them.  The abandoned road behind our house that once led to what is now route 17 is used by snowmobiles on occasion although it doesn't seem to be marked.  We have followed it some of the way on skis and snowshoes.  When the snow cover is thin the snowmobiles can be rough on the ground.

Snowmobiles churned up the ground at a stream crossing


The terrain behind us has a lot of variety.  The woods are mixed hardwoods and conifers, and there are a surprising number of hills, some steep and rocky, and several ledges, and a couple of small swamps.  There are also vestiges of old roads here and there, probably once used for logging.

The forest behind us

Animals that don't leave tracks in the snow are well hidden.  In "Winter World: The Ingenuity of Animal Survival," naturalist Bernd Heinrich (known for his studies of ravens, among other things) wrote about the many states of hibernation.  Not a simple metabolic process, but one of degrees.  It's not just the bear who slows down his body in the cold, even birds have ways of staying alive in a kind of sleep-state that uses little energy.  All we see of some of the missing animals are disturbances, maybe footprints, around an open space beneath a log.  Others are in burrows below the snow, inside the tree hole, under the dried leaves, or perhaps invisible in plain sight.

One day the tracks began to disappear.  Warm weather and wind was erasing them.




And then they were all gone.  Erased.



But it's still January.  The slate was wiped clean, so clean that the grass reappeared for a few days and it looked almost as if the winter was done.  Another day, and  a fresh coat of snow appeared.  We await fresh tracks.



Error on "Hints of Winter" post:  A misidentified owl.  It was a barred owl I saw, not a barn owl.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

WHITE DREAMS




On March 7th in 2011 Vermont had a gigantic snowstorm, several feet of snow, enough that the snow banked on roadsides felt almost tunnel-like, and our driveway had to be plowed over and over because of drifts.  It was epic, awesome–all those words. We moved in the day after.  But that was the end of it.  There was to be no more snow (well, not literally; there was some snow, and eventually enough in the high peaks to ski a couple of times in 2012), until the beginning of this new year.   2012 was, for the record, a year of record warmth, according to Climate Central, with NOAA statistics:

By taking the top spot as the hottest year in the U.S., 2012 pushes 1998 into second place, followed by 2006, 1934 and 1999. In line with the global warming trend spurred by steadily rising carbon emissions, seven of the top 10 warmest years in the 48 states have occurred in the past 15 years.
Like so much recent record-breaking weather, 2012 isn’t just going to break the previous record, 2012 is looking to smash it, by more than 1°F. Climate Central projects the 2012 average temperature for the continental U.S. at 55.34°F compared to the previous record set in 1998 of 54.32°F. For perspective, 1°F is one quarter of the difference between the coldest and warmest years ever recorded in the continental U.S. 
Exactly how cold would it need to be not to break the record? Temperatures would have to average 14.76°F across the continent for the rest of December — a holiday season colder than any ever recorded.
But that is not going to happen. So far this December the mean temperature in the contiguous U.S. has been 44.13°F. The average temperature for 117 years of previous Decembers is 33.08°F.
The fact that the first few days of January 2013 brought below zero temperatures doesn’t mean much, but it is welcome.  It feels right.  It's the way Vermont is supposed to be.  And the snow–so much of it–feels very right.  It’s what we’ve been longing for.  It has moved us from this: 
Rufus on the left, Ken, and Harry












To this:

Ken, upright, at Sugarbush




At Sugarbush, me in the red jacket




after a drive over the mountain via Appalachian Gap:




In the woods and meadows around our house animal trails are newly visible.  Chris (son-in-law, next door) has spotted bobcat tracks in several places, porcupine tracks, and plenty of deer tracks.  We've seen many deer tracks as well, but haven't yet explored the woods to the same extent.  

A trail behind our house, tracks made by a snowmobile before a more recent snow

It's been almost too cold for our dogs, although Harry loves to roll around in the snow.


The bandana helps us find him amid the white.  And there really are two eyes under the fur.
Sadie, the Hustons' dog, bounds thru the snow like a deer–well, almost.





Will this snow and cold seem like a dream in a few weeks' time?  Will this winter stay with us?  It could all change again.  The climate forecast is not encouraging.  Remembering the film "Beasts of the Southern Wild" makes me think, like Hushpuppy, about the melting of the ice caps, the rising of the water.  We will see...