Tuesday, March 17, 2020

SURVEYING THE DAMAGE




IS THIS TOO APOCALYPTIC?




(Work by Alan Magee, Dowling-Walsh Gallery, Rockland, ME)

I took this photograph in the summer of 2019.  Now it looks prophetic, like a contagion metaphor. Look closely: the box holding the skull on the left suggests Asia, the one on the right, the West, skulls at a social distance, the oval the earth or maybe the egg, the wandering line...well, you can imagine.



But here we are.



Dark days, huh?

What with Trump turning the country upside down since 2016, a plague in 2020…What else can happen?  Locusts?  Asteroid?



The other day while I was getting my gym bag ready my thoughts ran like this:  the gym I go to in Vergennes, just four miles away, is an offshoot of the busier and larger one in Middlebury so it’s almost always quiet, maybe three people there at one time, sometimes I’m the only one, and by habit I put one of their towels between me and whatever I’m leaning on, and I take a shower afterwards.  The bag sat there, looking up at me. But then I didn’t go.

A couple of days later it was a beautiful day so I drove to downtown Middlebury and walked the dog around the college campus. The only people I saw were a couple of workmen and three other dog walkers.  I stopped at Agway to buy dog food and birdseed.  I went into a store: almost exciting.


Middlebury campus looks lovely: All that's lacking is students.


I planned to go to the local grocery store the next day. Not that I really had to, but I thought it would be convenient to stock up a bit more.  Figured I’d wear gloves.  That morning I thought about it some more, and decided not to go. I’d order instead.  Then I found that half the locals are doing the same thing and I’d have to wait five days to pick up my order.

The day after that I gave up. I ordered a jigsaw puzzle on-line for when I really get desperate.  You know, a rainy day.  Or maybe any old day.


I could sleep until it’s over. Hibernate, like a bear.  

Skyler sacked out. And presumably tuned out. I can't tune out.


 Things do heal though.  In time.  They will recover.  The grass will grow again.  



Take, for example, the physical damage created by small creatures and winter itself.  I always survey the damage when the snow is gone, exposing the grass.  With the snow blanket removed, the grass tells many tales.  Busy, busy mice.  There is more damage than in previous years. Either there were more mice and other small animals this winter or they were on a building spree. 

An entensive network of mouse trails (more than likely) on a day the big pond was still frozen

A closer view from yet another, smaller, network

Vole holes. They're a bit bigger (see tip of my foot at top, for size), and they move more dirt. 



The pond needs looking after (getting at that algae before it gets me), but it’s too soon; the ice lingers after cold nights and even when it melts in the sun the water is still too cold. Besides, the pump isn’t back in yet.  But soon.

And then there is the tiresome chore of putting the driveway back onto the driveway.  My plow guy inevitably pushes off the gravel, laced with a soupçon of sod, when he shoves the snow to the side.  I suppose that’s unavoidable.  Gravel is a nuisance, but without I’d be in mud.  It's not really a choice.



Gravel where it's not supposed to be.  (Dull photo, but it's proof.)


April will come.  Spring is arriving (technically speaking at least).  There will be lots of outdoor work for me to do.  I wouldn’t call it gardening though, more like, um, outdoor work.  




Chris heading back to the sugarhouse. The sap runs as it always does.


And the grass will grow, and the flowers will bloom.  Soon.


Even now an osprey that flew by my window is sitting on a branch, not far from the sugar house, waiting for some slight movement, one of those mice, maybe, no longer protected by its roof of snow.  I’m watching him with Ken’s super binoculars.  I can see his feathers ruffling in the breeze.


What apocalypse?

  








Wednesday, February 26, 2020

THE ADVENTURES OF MY COUSIN GEORGE

Schönberg or Šumperk


What follows is the story of my Australian cousin George.  It's a tale of derring-do and survival that crossed many borders; George was in turn brave, reckless, audacious, and enterprising––whatever was needed.  He is the reason Ken and I went to visit Australia in the first place. We met George and his wife Nelly when they visited us in Massachusetts years ago, and we fell in love with them both.  

But why write this story now?  I was looking for some old photos, and remembered that I had rough notes about George’s life, but never did anything with them. I thought I’d give them another look.  Maybe the real reason is that sometimes burying oneself in memories of another era instead of this one is a welcome distraction. 


MY COUSIN GEORGE

What follows is based upon written notes assembled by George’s son-in-law Greg Uhe from conversations he had with George and my own conversations with George plus a few additions of my own.


GOOD TIMES BEFORE THE WAR

My cousin was born George Rudolf Drobenko on May 5, 1926, in Russia, or what was then Soviet Russia, and is now Ukraine.  His father, Rudolf Drobenko, from whom George undoubtedly gained his middle name, was Russian Orthodox insofar as he was at all religious, and a criminal lawyer by profession. The Drobenko family apparently had roots in the area, given that his paternal grandfather had been the Mayor of the city of Kharkiv, second in size only to Kyiv, Ukraine’s largest city. There was an Austrian connection as well in the family lineage, as his paternal grandmother was from Klagenfurt.  A more recent Austrian addition to the Drobenko family was George’s mother, Ella Gabron.

This photo was in my parents' photo album. My father always spoke
warmly of George.  As a child he seemed a distant figure to me.  I never imagined
I would ever meet him.


Ella was one of my father’s four sisters.  All four had names that as a child I used to enjoy reciting as fast as I could:  Ady, pronounced Ah-dee, for Adela, Ella, Irma and Ida.  Ella was by far his favorite. In 1956 I met Ady who lived then in central Germany, in the middle of nowhere, and Irma, in Vienna. Both were widows.  I sensed Irma liked to play the grand lady, but I don't remember much about Ady, perhaps because at seventeen I was more interested in her two teenaged daughters. It was not until 1989 that Ken and I found Ida and her husband Hans in a nursing home in the outback in Australia near Cairns, both well into dementia by then. 

Ella was from Steiermark, a region of Austria that includes the city of Graz, and like most Austrians, she was Catholic, although religion seems to have played little or no role in the family's life.  Ella had met Rudolf Drobenko when she was a nurse during the first World War.  He was one of the wounded soldiers she had cared for. A meeting like this, nurse and wounded soldier, could have been the beginning of a wildly romantic tale. And maybe for a time it was. 


The four sisters, from the left:  Ida, Adela (seated), Ella, Irma
Ella was my father's favorite.  

The family remained in Russia/Ukraine for only three months after George was born before moving to Sopot, Poland, a town on the Baltic Sea where George fondly remembered going to the beach as a young boy.  By the time he was eight or nine years old he was sent off to boarding school where he saw his parents and aunt only in vacation periods.  


Left to right:  Irma (?), Ida, Ella, and George's father Rudolf holding George.


Looking back, George recalled being “above average in languages,” perhaps hinting that his performance in the other subjects was less than memorable. Facility in languages may have been helped along by the fact that his family spoke both German and Polish at home, and his mother's insistence that he learn French for, as he put it, “snobbish reasons,” French still being the language of the upper crust in those days. For his part, George’s father insisted on their speaking Russian. George liked school; that is, he liked being at school having fun. He recalled being a “naughty boy” and often “wagged school” (played truant).

The family lived well. They had servants, owned two cars, unusual at the time, and employed a chauffeur.  Skiing holidays were part of their way of life. Eventually they moved to Germany, settling in the Duchy of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, a province near the Polish border that was later absorbed into yet another province. Around this time George's father became a naturalized German citizen. It was an interesting time, to say the least, to have chosen to become a German citizen. By this time Hitler’s party was either gaining power or–assuming this citizenship occurred after 1933–Hitler had already become Chancellor. The family was well-connected.  George said that his father became Governor of an area in Poland when it came under German occupation. His best friend’s father was Governor of another part of Poland.  

If Rudolf indeed governed a section of Poland–I have been unable to find a list of the Governors who served under Hans Frank, Governor of the entire Polish occupation–this would place him there following 1939 when the German occupation began. Rudolf would have reported to Frank, who in turn reported directly to Hitler. Some three million Jewish Poles were sent to extermination camps from German-occupied areas in Poland between 1939 and 1945. Hans Frank was executed at Nurnemberg for crimes against humanity after the war. 


From my parents' album: George, his father and mother on a ski holiday.


HAVING FUN, UNTIL THE WAR BEGINS

By now George was a teenager, and accordingly was sent to an upper level boarding school.  This school was in Zakopane, Poland, perhaps selected because it catered to the wealthy, and perhaps also because it was in an area much favored by important members of the Gestapo. Zakopane is a resort town in the Tatra mountains, today, as then, a popular access point for skiing, climbing, and hiking.  Certainly an appealing location for a school. George’s regular studies again included languages: English, French, Latin and German. (Yet only a few years later, at a crucial moment, the English language would forsake him and he would be unable to speak a word of it.)  But studies hardly made up the whole of his school experiences, and he early on established a reputation as a rebel. This was where he first took up smoking, which would become a lifelong habit. Good-looking and wildly charming, he had no trouble getting involved with girls from a nearby school. It was here he learned to become a master of escape. In one incident he was caught hiding under a bed, with a girl. He fled a room by letting himself out through a window and lowering himself by rope. Worse yet, he copied an exam.  He was caught more than once. Thanks only to his father’s lofty position he avoided being expelled. There was also skiing on hand nearby, and on skiing holidays his Aunt Irma would come to visit. Alas, he recalled, when she was visiting she would “spoil things.”  Although it's not clear what she spoiled, it may not be hard to imagine. Despite these distractions George managed to stay for three years, going home only for the routine Christmas and June holidays. At last the war arrived at the school’s door. In 1944 the school was evacuated and placed under Russian occupation. His family moved George to a boarding school in southern Germany, in Bavaria.

Now in Bavaria, far to the south, it was easier for him to visit his mother who by this time was staying with his grandmother in Schönberg, presumably because his father was caught up in the machinations of the war which, by that time, was going badly for Germany.  Schönberg is in the Sudentenland territory that had been annexed by Hitler at the start of the war, and was thus incorporated into wartime Germany. This was the town (then Austrian) where my father, born in Vienna in 1899, lived as a young boy.  In 1945 Schönberg would be liberated by the Russian Army, and all Germans living there deported to parts of Bavaria and Austria.  This was how my grandmother and Aunt Irma and family came to live in Vienna where my father helped them buy an apartment. The town of Schönberg, now called Šumperk, the Czech word for Schönberg or “beautiful mountain,” became part of Czechoslovakia (now the Czech Republic).  More of that later.


A TURNING POINT

Around this same time, while his father was still a governor, and when George was about fifteen years old (this would have been some time in 1941 or 1942), his father took him on a train trip to Russia with the purpose of visiting his father’s brothers, one of whom was a doctor and another a lawyer. During the train journey they witnessed bombing, and they themselves came under fire.  Did George ever meet these brothers?  George didn't say anything about them. Maybe what was important for him at this time was not the trip, but something else. Either during the trip or very soon after George learned his father had an attachment to another woman. He met her, in fact, and did not like her. The woman’s daughter was introduced to him as his half-sister. 


From my parents' album.


Perhaps also around this time he came to fully understand that his father, holder of a high govermental position with Hitler in power, would have to have been a Nazi. Was a Nazi.  It may be that George had known or suspected this all along. The estrangement from his father may have begun with that awareness, but surely it intensified when he saw with his own eyes that his father had betrayed his mother. This may have been the moment when he decided he no longer wanted to be associated in any way with his father. He no longer wanted to be known by his father’s name.  He officially changed his name from Drobenko to his mother’s maiden name. From now on he would be known as George Gabron.

George was nineteen in 1945, a momentous year. As the year began, the Germany army was in retreat, and by April Hitler was in his Berlin bunker. Much of Austria and Germany was in ruins.  In May Germany surrendered.  Somehow George managed to complete his final year of school despite having missed much of it, what with playing billiards and staying out all night, not to mention the war all around him.  Still, school was done with, and beyond the school a changed world awaited.  After graduating he went straight to Prague, now under Russian occupation, to join his mother who was living there, by herself, in a hotel. His father was missing.  But missing how?  Was he on the run?  Prague wasn't safe, and plans were made to leave. But instead they delayed.  His mother may have counted on his father showing up. A meeting may have been prearranged.

They stayed too long. It was in Prague that his mother was killed.  She was shot in front of George by Czech partisans. One of the Czechs handed George his mother's jewelry. He ran. This is how I heard the story from George. There were no details.  Maybe when you tell someone a long story that includes an event like this you can't stop to fill in the small often telling details. When you're the listener, you may not feel you can ask about those details. Since those of us who listened didn't probe, we were left to wonder. We might picture soldiers bursting into their room in the middle of the night.  Or was it daytime?  Maybe Ella and George were taken someplace, maybe only downstairs. Was Ella singled out?  Or was she one of many? Were they looking for George’s father?  (He would likely not have been unknown.)  We know they weren’t interested in money, as George said it was Czechs who handed George his mother’s jewelry.  But how did they get the jewelry?  Was it hidden somewhere?  Or was Ella wearing it?  Why did they allow George to get away?  Did they feel sorry for him?  (Hey, give him the jewelry, he’s just a kid!)


George's mother Ella, a photograph taken before she was married.


The answers to some of these questions lie somewhere in the chaos that immediately followed the end of the war.  George’s grandmother, aunt and family had made it to Vienna.  But Czechoslovakia was not safe.  

In 1945 the war had barely ended when Czechoslovakia began to expel the two million Germans who lived in Sudetenland.  The expulsion took on almost hysterical urgency on July 31 when a munitions depot exploded in the Czechoslovakian town of Ústi nad Labem, about forty miles from Prague. Rumors began to spread that the Germans who lived there were responsible. Whether or not they were, what followed was a massacre.  Some two thousand or more Germans were killed that day in Ústi nad Labem.  Those responsible were said to have been a combination of Revolutionary Guards, a post-war Czech paramilitary, along with Russian and Czech soldiers, and a few hundred Czech civilians who had come there by train from Prague to take part.  It is not hard to imagine the desires for revenge that raged throughout Czechoslovakia.  Many thousands of Czechs had been killed by the Nazis, so many that it dwarfed the number of killings that took place that day and the many days afterwards. Despite pleas by the Allied Powers that expulsions be humane, orderly, and non-violent, they were often rough, fed by hatred, a need for revenge, and despair.


LIVING BY YOUR WITS


With the death of his mother, George had nowhere to hide, no one to turn to. He fled, he ran, with that jewelry, and with it and some luck he was able to buy his way out of Prague. He paid a Frenchman who finagled to get him, along with other refugees, on a train to Pilzen, a city to the west of Prague. With the aim of somehow getting to London he pretended to be British, even though he couldn’t actually speak English. (Where were those language lessons now!)  Together with some actual British people he went first to Paris and from there flew to London. In London he was quickly discovered not to be in the least British, and was jailed for a week before being sent right back to Paris. 

Once back in France he found himself broke, without money and without food.  Desperate, he found work in US military camps where at least he was able to get meals. He found some work in a knitting factory, but that didn't last long. He went back to Paris and scraped together enough money to find an apartment there. Somewhere along the way he happened to meet a French crook, a fortuitous meeting that opened the door to other ways of making money.  He began to smuggle cigarettes, nylon stockings, coffee and cloth, all in huge demand after the war. He would buy from Americans and sell to the French. It was a lucrative business. He managed well enough in this occupation to holiday in Nice and Monte Carlo. 


George's Paris apartment. Stephanie Gabron, his granddaughter, located it when she was in Paris in 2012.


George arranged to visit Vienna, then divided into sectors controlled by Allied and Russian forces, to visit his grandmother, Aunt Irma, her son Gernod and daughter Inge (also my cousins). "Arranging" was a complicated business.  He disguised himself as an American soldier, hoping no one would speak to him and discover he wasn’t actually American, not to mention his lack of ability to speak American English or any other kind. The apartment** my father had bought in Vienna for his mother had the misfortune to be in the Russian-controlled zone.  The Russians, or rather Soviets, as they were known at the time, were not the choicest occupiers, as they were more interested in stripping the city of infrastructure, and the soldiers themselves had more interest in stripping any items that they thought were of value. George arrived in Paniglgasse with packages of food that they desperately needed.  For everyone the goods of daily life were in short supply.  I remember hearing a story of someone having being shot in a dispute over a can of peas. Fuel as well as food was scarce. People hiked out of the city to the countryside if they could to buy potatoes and vegetables from farmers. Most had only basic rations. My mother regularly sent them huge packages of food in cartons that she wrapped with old pillow cases that she sewed on so they couldn’t easily be opened up before they arrived. “Care packages.” 


The first three or four windows on the second floor are the Vienna apartment.

Ken and I visited No. 9 Paniglgasse in 2012. I had last seen the apartment in 1956.


George returned to Paris. By 1946 he was smuggling in a major way.  Having accumulated some 100,000 French francs, he hoped to go to Australia where another of my father’s sisters, his Aunt Ida, had emigrated years earlier, following her husband Hans Dolleschel who went there in search of a fortune.  In order to move to Australia one needed to have an Australian sponsor. Ida and Hans lived in what was then a remote area near the Daintree River north of Cairns. They had no children. She was cool to the idea of sponsoring him and made no offer. Frustrated, George continued with his various enterprises. 

He would go to Hanover, Germany, to buy cheap stamps and re-sell them in Paris, but he was caught red-handed in Kassel, Germany, with those stamps as well as a false ID (he used a number of aliases) that resulted in two weeks of jail time. Undaunted, he returned to Paris, where pressing financial need prompted him to resume smuggling. In Brussels he found he could buy just about anything that would be easy to resell. On one of those Belgian trips he was nearly captured when a train he was on was raided.  He leapt onto the roof of the train. Luck was with him, and he evaded capture. When smuggling was good and he had money, he lived well, even going so far as to hire an expensive car. But there was always risk, and plenty of it.  While in Paris he was raided yet again, and escaped again; this time to get away he and a friend had to jump from rooftop to rooftop. Safety continued to elude him.  While he was walking very near the border another time, wearing a black coat in the faint hope of blending into the darkness, he was spotted and locked up in Lille for several weeks in what he remembered were “terrible conditions.” Worst of all, he lost all his money.  


ESCAPE TO AUSTRALIA

Again he wrote to Aunt Ida in Australia to please send him money. Then he waited. And waited. At long last, and probably with reluctance, she agreed to sponsor him so that he could come to Australia. At last!  He didn’t hesitate. Come to Australia he did, arriving by ship, then made his way overland to Daintree.  In Daintree Aunt Ida and Hans had a small self-sufficient plantation with windmill, a water supply, electricity, and access to the Daintree River, where they grew all manner of tropical fruits, coffee and cocoa, raised turkeys, chickens and peacocks. Even in as late as 1989 when I was in Daintree there was not much there: a few stores, several wooden buildings, rain forest all around, the river with its enormous crocodiles, and a ferry link to the single road north. The place may have offered safety and shelter, but it did not feel like home to George. There was a decided lack of warmth. Ida and Hans did not welcome him as a close member of the family, much less an adopted son. Maybe they relished their remoteness and the lack of other society. At any rate, he knew this was not the right place for him.  He lived with Ida and Hans for as long as he could endure it. When it became unbearable, he made yet another escape, his last escape, and lit out for Melbourne, nearly 3,000 kilometers away.

The rest is history.  That is to say, it was the beginning of a new kind of life, the one that we all know about.  It was also the end of his misadventures. Luck with with him once again, as it was in Melbourne where George met Nelly. Nelly had an interesting story of her own about how she came to be in Australia.  She been deported by the British with her family from Palestine. Her family had been part of a German colony that called themselves Templars, a group that had begun to emigrate to farm in the Holy Land in the 1860's. Now regarded as enemies of the Allies, some 500 were sent to Australia. Nelly was interned in a camp outside of Melbourne until the war’s end. On release, internees were given $15 and a choice: get sent to Germany, or remain in Australia. Never having lived in Germany, for Nelly and her family the answer was obvious. As for George, he had to find a way to make a living in Melbourne, having up to now had no time for learning a profession, and no marketable skills.  So he started a painting business. He and Nelly were married. And, in time, George and Nelly became the progenitors of a virtual dynasty of Australians who are now to be found in Melbourne, the Sunshine Coast, and western Australia. The third generation is already arriving.     



George and Nelly at the time of their marriage. I took this photo from one Nelly had framed in her home on a visit in 2010.

But I’m jumping ahead.  One day after the war Aunt Irma spotted a familiar figure getting on a train in Vienna. It was George’s father!  He was alive. Where had he been all this time? What had he been doing?She went over to him and she gave him George’s address in Australia. She must have questioned him, but nothing about their conversation seems to be known. Not long after, George received a letter from his father, the only news he had had of him in years. His father wrote that he planned on coming out to Australia to visit. However, it was a visit that never happened. One night in 1950 Nelly was waiting to meet George at a dance at the St. Kilda town hall in Melbourne. When George didn’t come on time she thought for sure that he had stood her up. He finally did arrive, very late. He had just gotten word, he told Nelly, that his father had died. How would George have felt about seeing his father again, I wondered. He had told me how much he hated his father, a Nazi, a betrayer. He didn’t care if he ever saw him again.  Maybe it was better this way. 


EPILOGUE

One day a French woman knocked on the Aunt Ida’s door in Daintree and asked for George. Who could she have been? Surely there was a story here.

George never quit his smoking habit. It very likely contributed to his untimely death. He died a year or so after our first visit to Australia in 1989.  He was only in his early sixties.  


NOTES

*My father John (Hans) Gabron came to New York City from Rio de Janeiro in the late 1920's, having left Austria a few years earlier. He hadn’t seen George since George was a young boy, not until he and Nelly visited my parents in New York City in the 1980’s and then came to see us in Lexington, Massachusetts. That was when I first met George.  Although my father had visited his sisters in Europe immediately after the war and several times in later years, he never saw Ella again, and George had long since escaped to Australia.  His only contact with his sister Ida in Australia was via a rare letter. Even then I dimly recall her being thought of as odd.  I never met my Austrian grandmother.

**No. 9 Paniglgasse:  It was my understanding that my father bought the apartment on Paniglgasse for his mother after they were forced to leave Schönberg.  The apartment was shared then and after her death by Aunt Irma (Garo), her son Gernod, and his wife Lisalotte. (Daughter Inge decamped for the US shortly after the war to marry an American soldier whom I later heard she divorced.) I never met my cousin Gernod who drowned in the Danube (ruled an accident), but I visited the apartment in 1956 and again in 2012 when Lisalotte lived there alone.  In 1956 evidence of war damage was still obvious. Across the street from No. 9 Paniglgasse was what had been a school building. From the apartment I could see into the school windows where toilet bowls were piled up to the ceiling. I was told that they were leftovers Soviet soldiers had been unable to take with them when the occupation ended.

Thursday, December 19, 2019

IS THIS TOO GRIM? Into a New Decade

Collapse. Is this too grim a metaphor?



It only just occured to me that the end of this year marks the end of a decade.  Usually it seems one works up to that realization, beginning with nostalgic looks back to the first few years, followed by some thoughts about how far we've come, best moments, blah, blah.  But "usually" applies to nothing anymore. The world is different.

Like too many people (okay, Republicans) who are too afraid the president will shoot them (metaphorically) to admit having any modicum of integrity, I too want to hide. Sometimes, at least. It's all too horrible and cuts too deep. I can't bear listen to every argument and discussion, or take in heavy doses of political rhetoric. I cannot listen to the live words of our White House narcissist-in-chief. For a long time now I've also not unable to watch nature films, beautiful nature films, because toward the end there is always the inevitable "...now, however..." statement about the future, or the lack of one. Nevertheless I'm a news wonk. I like knowing all the details about whatever's happening. It's just that I can't watch it unfurl in real time. No live debates for me, I'll read the summaries the next day, thank you.

What I have patience for though is the reasoned analysis, the thoughtful insight, the story behind the story, the personal story, what makes something or someone tick. So I check the NYTimes, the Huff Post, CNN, CBS, BBC and whatever else turns up. So besides fiction I read Masha Gessen's "The Future is History" (Putin's Russia), and "Midnight in Chernobyl," (more Russia), "Red Notice" (still more Russia) and "Home Now," (immigrants in Maine) and "Amity and Prosperity" (corporate pollution), plus anything Elizabeth Kolbert writes about the global environment. And so on and on. It's like streaming versus network TV.

It was a more innocent time in 2010 when we decided to move to Vermont, but only in retrospect. There was nothing particularly innocent about 2010, but in comparison with the present it looks very much so. We had no awareness then of the schism that everyone feels, and that cuts right across this country.  We weren't accustomed to public denials of reality in those long ago days. We didn't read daily about conspiracies and hate groups. We couldn't imagine progress on pollution could be reversed. We never imagined truth could lose its power. We never thought so many countries would revert to old, ugly ways. To think such things would have been impossibly cynical.  Now we realize that an era has passed, not simply another ten years. An era packed into such a short time. The very notion of time seems strangely stretched and snapped back like a rubber band: each day is full of a week's worth of events, every month contains a year.  It's exhausting.


Even the words that we are speaking now
thieving time
has stolen away,
and nothing can return. 1



But why talk about what we already know.



I can measure ten years in one way:

March 2011


Now


See how the tree has grown from one whose trunk you could shake to a tree offering shade.  Besides tree growth there is absence. See in the distance the small white dog (our Harry) and the larger dog (the Huston's Sadie)?  Gone now.  See the small children? Nearly adults.

Things do change in ten years. 



He knew the damselfly was on his forehead. Ken had no quarrel with insects.


Words fail.

Back to now!


(Photo/painting by Jim Westphalen, Edgewater Gallery, Middlebury) 
@

Better to talk about things that happen here. It's winter, and once again easy to find coyote, fox, and deer tracks. Of which there are many. Since I mentioned politics earlier I should mention that I try to actively support Protect Our Wildlife, an organization that managed to get a bill passed outlawing coyote killing contests in this state. (About time, you might think.) Along with our global environment under threat, wildlife is having it harder with every passing year. To a degree, even in Vermont. Fragmentation of habitat is probably the biggest challenge. But archaic hunting and trapping regulations, supported by a retrograde Fish and Wildlife Commission, aren't helping.

Here's a story:
On October 19th a pack of bear hunting hounds attacked two hikers and their puppy on forest trail in nearby Ripton. The couple, who had been hiking in the area for many years, were swarmed by five 60-70 pound hounds wearing GPS collars. The pup was attacked first, and when they tried to protect the dog, they too were attacked, knocked down and bloodied. The attack went on and on, until finally a member of the hunting party running the hounds showed up. Instead of the cowed bear the hunters had expected to see, they found the injured couple and their dog. (All survived.) Collared hounds are generally far ahead of their followers, heedless of whose property they are passing through, and, obviously, can't be guaranteed to circle in on only a bear. Protect Our Wildlife is currently lobbying for a regulation to shorten what is currently a ridiculously long bear hound training period (allowing hounds to chase bears for practice without any treed and doubtless terrorized bears geting killed) that now runs from June into September, followed by bear hunting season. This is only a first and very modest step.

Here's a story:
Even though I support stopping the killing of coyotes any old time and by any means, having a close encounter with one is still unnerving. My dog Skyler doesn't venture beyond the line he perceives as the limit of the invisible (mild shock-inducing) fence. This is fortunate, for in the dark he guards the perimeter.  One recent evening about ten o'clock after I let him out for his final outside time he began barking and running madly back and forth in circles around the house. (Not for the first time.) I called him again and again, but what his nose was telling him shut out anything his ears may have heard. He knew something was out there. I was in pajamas and bathrobe, but I put on boots, grabbed his leash and a flashlight and went outside to try and grab hold of him.  (Also not for the first time.) First I scanned the field behind the house with my flashlight to see if he was barking at an animal I could see. The beam caught a coyote in mid-field, looking right back at me. In the spotlight it began to walk closer. Then it walked even closer, slowly, in no rush. It kept coming closer. It was nearing the lawn. I ran back into the house and returned to the same spot with the leash, the flashlight, and now armed with a long walking stick. The coyote came within fifteen or maybe just ten feet short of the lawn and the invisible border behind which was a crazed Skyler. The coyote stood still, directly facing this mad, hysterical creature. I clapped my hands. Nothing moved. I slapped the flashlight. Anything to make a noise. Still nothing. The coyote kept standing there, looking at this wild agitated thing that was Skyler. Trying not to think what might happen next, I ran toward the coyote and shouted "Shoo, shoo!" Thankfully, he turned at last and–very, very, slowly, reluctantly–began walking further back into the field. But he was in no hurry. He stopped and looked back at us. (He was beautiful, big, like a wolf.) Then he vanished into the dark. I thought, maybe he figured he decided he didn't have time for this kind of nonsense.


Collapse. But it no longer looks so grim.



Local news. I can deal with that. It tends to bring you back to where you are.

I feel better about 2020 already. The events here are the ones that seem to matter most.





Perhaps God has many more seasons
in store for us––
or perhaps the last is to be 
this winter
that guides back the waves
of the Tyrrhenian Sea
to break against 
the rough pumice cliffs.
You must be wise. Pour the wine
and enclose in this brief circle
your long-cherished hope. 2




1 Horace, Odes, quoted in "The Order of Time," Carlo Rovelli
2 Ibid.





Saturday, October 5, 2019

FALL RITUALS



I'm not short of apples.  Even the two apple trees that have been reluctant to produce up to now, two of the four trees, have decided to offer samples of what they could  do.  Only a sample though.  Four or five apples on one, a single one or two on the other.  I've no idea what took them so long.  Nor can I imagine what they might do if they really got going.

Skyler is fond of apples, proudly bringing a couple of them inside every day. When he's especially excited about an apple catch he will bring it to me––I'm never sure what he's expecting me to do with it––then after I look at his effort with appreciation––yay, wonderful!–– he will run around the house with it and deposit it somewhere.  Maybe in his bed, maybe on the floor, maybe on another bed.  Sometimes he will eat the whole thing.

Skyler's find, on one of the guest beds.
He is also really fond of pears.  My pear tree is way overgrown, possibly the biggest pear tree I've ever seen, years past its prime.  I've found that when I pick those pears at what should be the right time they don't ripen any further, they stay hard and all at once go completely soft and rot.  There is no in between.  Skyler eats them, too, seeds, stem and all.  So far, fingers crossed, he hasn't thrown up.

Unfortunately, all my apples are misshapen.  That translates into a peeling chore for pies, applesauce or whatever I might make.  They do taste good, though, despite the bother.  What they'd be best for, I suppose, is cider.  My family next door made plenty of that last week.  All their materials for cider making are improvised, with the exception of the old cider press.  First the apples are rinsed and cut in half, and then, with the help of an old wiffle ball bat, shoved into a garbage disposal and dumped as apple mush into the bucket below.  The mush in turn is dumped into the cider press which has been lined with an old sheet that serves as a filter and holds the mush together.  The cider is strained as it's being poured into old milk jugs, some to drink fresh, most of it to be frozen.



Grandson Hans' hand steadies the press while Chris turn the press wheel.


An iconic seasonal act and a chore for everyone who lives near trees is, of course, leaf raking.  I never have to rake leaves.  This may seem nothing short of amazing, given that there is forest all around and a couple of trees near the house.  The reason is wind, wind coming from just the right direction and that direction is primarily northeasterly.  So it neatly blows the leaves into the woods. I have no complaints.


I've been assessing the flora recently, the kind of stock-taking you do in the fall when the need for weeding slows down and you see the shape of things more clearly.  Here's an example.  All summer long I've been fighting this enormous hedge-like shrub that was lined up under the kitchen area windows.  To keep it in shape through the growing season meant getting a ladder into the damned thing on a regular basis, only to find it sending up shoots again with great enthusiasm only days later.  Okay, I decided one day last month, I'm done with you. I'm not doing this anymore. You're over.  So I cut it down and dug it out.


This is the one: an overgrown forsythia that long ago gave up blossoming in order to concentrate on growing taller. Dianthus fills areas around it.
(Parenthetically...

...uh-oh, comparing the 2019 photo above and this 2010 one, pre-porch, made me
notice that the house needs to be re-stained. Badly.)


As I was saying, I replaced the overgrown forsythia "hedge" with three dwarf winterberries and one hydrangea. Winterberries need a male plant nearby if there are to produce those red berries. The male plant is diminutive and looks like a different plant entirely.  None of them should be able to reach window level height, ever.



The berry-less male plant is hiding behind. Wire tomato cages around the bases are to keep Skyler, drawn by the odor of bone meal, from digging.  They should look better by next year. 

Besides the plantings, there's one major new thing:  a woodshed.  Last winter I was fed up with digging out wood from under a snow and ice-covered tarp, stepping on pallets that sometimes broke under my feet, and generally stumbling around to gather a pile of logs.  The piled up kindling was even harder to grab, not to mention first locating it under a foot of snow.



The shed (Chris Huston's design) easily holds four cords of wood, leaving the space nearest the house free for storing the recycle containers, kindling and other odds and ends. Stacking was easy, compared with making a free-standing pile.

There's still a short walk from the woodshed to the back porch where a day or two's worth of wood is stacked,
 but that shouldn't be much of a challenge.



After I removed plants and old woodpile pallets and did the usual shrub trimming I ended up with a good-sized burn pile.  That's what we call yard waste that's bigger than leaves plus miscellaneous wood.  Next I'll pick a day with a forecast of little to no wind and get a burn permit from the town and fire it up.  This promises to be a big one.  Maybe some cold damp day in November?  Or maybe it'll be a bonfire event.


The current burn pile, on the site of last year's.  The longer it sits there the bigger it gets.


When I looked at the 2010 photo of the house, the one that told me it was tie for repainting, I was impressed by how different the house looked, nevermind the structural additions.  Aging color.  I was also impressed by the changes to the landscape.  Aging flora.  It's not only the house that looks different now, but almost ten years of growth have made their mark.  It kind of snuck up on me.  Aging me.

This old photo looks like it could have been taken at the edge of a golf course:

The pond, looking toward Snake Mountain. Photo taken in fall 2010.  


By the end of our first winter in 2011 when we were building our new porch a few shrubs had to be moved, so we relocated them on the other side of the pond and added a river birch next to them.  We decided to let the pond edge be natural, letting it go wild.  It gives better cover to pond creatures and there's no need for edge trimming.  A few years ago during a lull in sugaring sons-in-law Cliff and Chris built a bridge over the place where meadow seepage fills the pond, a sometime brook. You can hardly see the bridge when the grasses are this high.


The same view, September 2019.  Big difference, huh?

There are plenty of other signs here and there of time passing as measured by plantings.  Trees seem to have grown almost surreptitiously.  I was surprised when I saw a photo of what this maple looked like when we arrived, compared with how it looks today.  


Spindly adolescent, that tree. Atop the hay bale in the background are grandchildren, along with our dog Harry and two Huston dogs.  Photo taken in spring 2011. 

Same tree.  The shade gives a sense of its size.


The first frost arrived this morning, layering the field and everything in the house's early morning shadow with a touch of sparkly white.  The basil, still at its peak this late in the season, is probably finished now.  I hadn't bothered to cover it last night because so often the frost forecast is for everywhere else except the Champlain Valley.  Soon it will be time once again to take off the screens, put away the sun umbrellas, take down the porch blinds, cover up the porch cushions, set mousetraps in the basement, do the final mowing, and trim the plants around the pond before it ices over––at least a month away––and wait for winter.

So it goes.